With the Stingray, the MANLEY team has struck a remarkably harmonious balance in design which satisfies the sonic desires of the audiophile and the rocker, the artist and the musician, the student and the master, the yin and the yang. We invite you to experience the stunning sonic quality and visual beauty of the Stingray personally. 

In Summer 2005 we added the following features to production. Stingrays designated with serial code MSTX### now include the following:

• TRIODE - UL Switching

• SUBWOOFER OUT

• RECORDING OUT

• TAPE LOOP (Insert) with Bypass switch

Select between 20 watts of seductive and ethereal TRIODE mode or 40 watts more powerful Ultra Linear output tube operation.

Subwoofer OUT a line level output that is AFTER the volume control so your powered subwoofer follows the same volume as your main speakers. These are unbalanced RCA jacks, line level. They feed the line inputs of your subwoofer, NOT the speaker jacks.

RECORD OUT (aka Tape OUT) is BEFORE the volume control so you can record whatever input you have selected without your listening level affecting the level going to your recorder. These are unbalanced RCA's. It is UNbalanced RCA's and UNbuffered so check out the input Z to your recorder to make sure it won't load down the Stingray main input while it is plugged in. Usually with unbuffered record outs we recommend you only plug in your recorder only when you are actually recording...

Tape LOOP: Also known as an INSERT point, the SEND or Tape Out comes off the selector switch as the Record Out option does going to your outboard EQ or Merlin BAM unit or tape recorder and then the signal returns (RETURN) to the Stingray in front of of the volume control so you can play tunes. A toggle switch selects whether the Tape LOOP (and whatever is plugged into the Tape Loop) is active or the signal goes straight through the Stingray as normal. If you have the Merlin BAM system, order your Stingray with the Tape LOOP option.

Need more than four inputs? Get a SKIPJACK line switcher and run it into this LOOP RETURN: The SKIPJACK is perfect for adding more inputs to anything. So if you use a SKIPJACK's 4 stereo inputs plus the Stingray's 4 stereo inputs you'll get 8 stereo inputs total. The way to do that is to consider the TAPE LOOP: you can bring the SKIPJACK output into the LOOP RETURN, enact the LOOP ACTIVE switch and use the 4 x SKIPJACK inputs feeding the LOOP RETURN with the SKIPJACK controlling source switching for those 4 inputs. Then if you put the Stingray's LOOP switch to BYPASS you will be working with the 4 x Stingray inputs selectable on the Stingray. That gives you 8 total stereo inputs as shown here.

Or if you do not want to use the TAPE LOOP feature (because you are using it for other purposes) or if you have an older Stingray without the TAPE LOOP, you can use a SKIPJACK to get up to 7 stereo line inputs by running the SKIPJACK's output into one of the Stingray's inputs as shown here:

NOTE: The SUBWOOFER OUT, RECORD OUT, and TAPE LOOP are all passive. So are the BALANCE and VOLUME controls also passive. No active electronics or buffers are used in these circuits. The RECORD OUT comes straight off the input select switch. So whatever source is selected will show up passed through at the TAPE OUT, regardless of whether or not the Stingray is on or off. The SUBWOOFER OUT will also produce signal when the Stingray is off, but you can turn down the volume control if you do not want tunes coming out of it when the unit is turned off.

With the Stingray, the MANLEY team has struck a remarkably harmonious balance in design which satisfies the sonic desires of the audiophile and the rocker, the artist and the musician, the student and the master, the yin and the yang. We invite you to experience the stunning sonic quality and visual beauty of the Stingray personally.

• 4 x Stereo Line RCA Inputs

• TRIODE - UL Switching

• RECORDING OUT

• SUBWOOFER OUT

• TAPE LOOP (Insert) with Bypass switch

• Passive Noble Volume and Balance Controls

• All-Vacuum Tube Lo-feedback Stereo Integrated Design

• Output Tubes: 8 x EL84 Ships with Russian NOS EL84M (aka 6Pi14Pi-EB) (We are out of Ei 6BQ5)

• Driver Tubes: 2 x 6414 Ships with GE or RAYTHEON JAN NOS USA or 6414W

• Input Tubes: 2 x 12AT7EH Ships with: 12AT7EH large plate Electro-Harmonix Russian

• Maximum Output Power UL mode: 40 Watts x 2 channels 1.5% THD @ 1kHz

• Maximum Output Power TRIODE mode: 20 Watts x 2 channels

• Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 40 kHz, -1dB

• Gain: 37 dB at max Volume

• Input Sensitivity: 185 mV in = 50 watts out into 5 Ohms

• Input Sensitivity Triode: 66mV in = 1W into 8 Ohms

• Input Sensitivity UL: 53mV in = 1W into 8 Ohms

• S/N Ratio: typically 87 dB A-WGT, 20Hz-20KHz

• Input Impedance: 50 kOhm nominal

• Optimum Speaker Load: 5 Ohms

• Actual Output Impedance:

  • at 20Hz: 2.8 Ohms

  • at 100Hz: 2.6 Ohms

  • at 1KHz: 2 Ohms

• Damping Factor: 5

• Scratch Factor: Use pennies under pointed feet to avoid marring cabinetry. Try quarters if you are in upper tax brackets. The bargain performer would be nickels. Paper currency does not function as well. Euro coins work 1.54 times better.

• Power Consumption Idle: 200W

• Maximum Power Consumption at Full Power: 370W

• MAINS Fuses:
  100~120VAC operation: MDA 3 AMP / 250 Volt SLO-BLO, Ceramic Body
  220~240VAC operation: MDA 2 AMP / 250 Volt SLO-BLO, Ceramic Body

• B+ FUSES: MDA 1/4 AMP, 250 Volt SLO-BLO, Ceramic. (2x Located internally)

• All Fuses Size: 1/4” x 1 1/4” SLO-BLO

• Power Supply: is factory set for 100V, 120V or 220-240VAC operation for original destination country's mains voltage.

• Operating Mains Voltage: changeable with power transformer re-wiring on PCB and fuse value change.

• Mains Voltage Frequency:

• Power Cord: Detachable IEC standard. Appropriate power cord supplied for destination country

• Dimensions: W= 19", D=14", H= 5 1/2"

• Shipping Weight: 30 lbs.

AVAILABLE OPTIONS

For upgrading older units, for serial codes MST###:

• Triode/UL switching available upon request for $250 extra NET.

• RECORD OUT aka Tape OUT available upon request for $175 extra NET.

• Subwoofer OUT available upon request for $175 extra NET.

• Tape LOOP option available for $200 NET

   

Yes these are all mods for BOTH channels, and the prices are for BOTH channels. A La Carte pricing is for adding these features to older units. To book this for your Stingray, please contact our service department. 2005 models with serial codes MSTX### already include those options.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS & TECH NOTES

TECH NOTE 4/2007: "Using Russian EL84M/6Π14Π-EB in older Stingrays"

Conditions: If you are retubing an older Stingray built before July 2006, carrying serial number below MSTx803, that originally shipped with Yugoslavian Ei EL84/6BQ5, and you cannot get the current draw high enough when trying to retube with Russian EL84M/6Π14Π-EB, we have an Adjustable Master Bias Board available to retrofit which will allow for more bias voltage swing or adjustability so that a wider range of tubes may be used. 

The Adjustable Master Bias Board is available from our Service Department to replace the 6K8 Master Bias Resistor located next to the right channel B+ fuse. The Adjustable Master Bias Board contains a 10K trimpot in parallel with a 10K resistor, in series with a 3K57 resistor. Installation instructions will be given by the service department when you order the board (if you are installing it yourself.) You need to be able to solder. If you do not work on your own amps, then you can book your Stingray with Paul in our Service Department to have this board installed for you. 

After installation: For Russian EL84M/6Π14Π-EB, set the Master Bias Trimpot to number 10 on its dial and check each tube to be sure it can bias up to 300mV reading on the bias points. (Some Russian EL84s are too low to work, and don't draw enough current by birth, so select another one that draws more current.) Reset all individual bias pots to get a bias voltage reading of 250mV on each test point. 

TECH NOTE: Regarding which tubes to use in the Stingray in reply to an email

Q: Help! I lost an output tube! What to do? I have already ordered replacements. Or should I look for some NOS? What are the best tubes to use in my Stingray?

You can temporarily sub in any output tube that works and biases up properly to keep ya going. When your complete sets arrive, stick with the batch sets. Even though there is adjustable bias for each tube, we have found best performance when all 8 output tubes are pre-batched and yes, of the same manufacture. The only way you should mix brands/types would be if you had equal opposing push-and-pull pairs installed. In the Stingray, tubes 1&2 are one phase and 3&4 are the other phase for that channel. On the other channel 5&6 work together and 7&8 work together on the other phase. In the case you had to mix brand/manufacture, like in an emergency situation, (or I guess you could play with this to see what happens) I would install one type in all the odd tubes and the other type in the even numbered output tubes. Ei's and the NOS EL84M - 6Pi14Pi-EB RUSSIAN tubes are similar in the general current draw operating parameter department.

I have observed in my brief history with them that the JJ's (and the regular russian EL84 (not M)) generally require slightly more negative bias volts to hold them down in the Stingray unless you have gotten them preselected for similar current draw/negative bias volts to where the Ei or EL84M/6Pi14 types generally fall. So if you had changed/lowered the Master Bias Resistor for the JJ's you'll need to change it back for the Ei or NOS Russian EL84M. Or if you had lower current draw JJs and did not have to change out the MBR, then just rebias when you get the new tube sets in there.

General concensus is the Ei's are (WERE) the best choice for the Stingray. The russian EL84M 6Pi14Pi-EB are strong tubes. We use those in the MAHIs. And since the Ei factory has been asleep for the last few years, the current production Stingrays also use the Russian EL84M tubes.

As for currently manufactured 12AT7 types, the Ei has the most votes for best sound in that amp if you can find them. As for other NOS exotica, we cannot acquire enough GOOD NOS 12AT7s to base production on, (hated those mid-80's Philips and GE's) so a good guy like Kevin Deal at upscaleaudio.com is a super source for delivering interesting cool old tubes to play with for those who want to play with input tubes.

The 6414 driver tubes we use ARE NOS. We seem to be running low on the giant batch GE or Raytheon's we have been using for over ten years and have now moved on to another huge batch of NOS 6414W GE we have in stock. Nobody has reported any sonic difference on this. I would just leave the driver tubes alone.

Q: HELP! One channel is out!

First step, check bias readings on that channel. If all of the tubes are reading ZERO = 0.000 Volts DC, then the B+ fuse is blown. Turn OFF the unit. Consult the manual and change the fuse.

Next, if that's not it and you are getting normal bias reading on all of the output tubes, exchange the 12AT7 input and then the 6414 driver tubes between the channels one swap at a time, and see if the problem switches channels with the tube swap. 

Next, recheck your inputs and make sure you have it selected to the active input.

On old Stingrays, MST serial numbers, wiggle the input selector switch to make sure it's making good contact. Try a different input position. Switch it back and forth between all of the inputs rapidly to "clean" the switch contact.

If you are still stumped, fill out the SERVICE REQUEST FORM and we'll take it from there.