STINGRAY® iTube®
STEREO INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER

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Feature Rich Sound! One of the four line level inputs of the STINGRAY iTube model is an integrated iPod dock! Officially certified by Apple and sanctioned as a “Made for iPod” product, the Stingray iTube is a harmonious balance of the audiophile and the rocker, the artist and the musician. Convenient, flexible, sexy, and fun. Stream your fave internet radio or drift off to sleep with the Stingray iTube by your bedside. RF remote control even includes SLEEP timer. 

 
 
 
 

"...while it's tempting to categorise the Stingray iTube merely as a means of using an iPod in an audiophile-friendly, valve-driven manner, that would sell it short. Instead, it should be regarded first and foremost as a great audiophile amp that just so happens to take iPods directly."

Ken Kessler, HiFi News, September 2009

 
 
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DETAILS

 

The famous Manley Stingray stereo integrated amplifier has been renewed and refreshed. New for 2009 we present to you the Stingray iTube integrated tube amplifier with iPod dock and full featured RF and IR remote control.

The STINGRAY iTube is the next evolution from our acclaimed Stingray Integrated Amplifier, legendary in the hifi world since it swam from our labs in 1997. Originally conceived with particular attention paid to optimal component placement for the purity and symmetry of the signal path layout, the Stingray quickly became one of our best-selling products. The Stingray iTube retains the same basic tube circuitry and marvelous output transformers as the original with some important improvements:

  • An iPod dock has been integrated into the Stingray iTube as the 4th input source. The Manley iTube has been certified by Apple and officially sanctioned as a "Made for iPod" product. The Stingray's Remote Control commands the iPod PLAY/PAUSE and TRACK FORWARD/BACK controls.
  • The iPod's video output is available at the S-Video output jack located on the left side facia.
  • The high voltage tube energy storage has been increased vastly resulting in even more solid and coherent bass control and impact.
  • A headphone jack has been added to the right side facia. This jack re-routes the output from the speaker binding posts and mutes the Subwoofer output feed.
  • The Remote Control works with both Radio Frequency and InfraRed technologies. Using the remote in RF mode gives freedom from having to "point and shoot." The RF remote is omnidirectional and works through walls and cabinets. IR capability is included for those with Universal Learning Remote Controls for consolidated integration into existing systems. The volume control, balance adjust, input switching, and iPod interface commands are all on the RF/IR Remote Control. Additionally user can perform the MUTE, DIM, INSERT and STANDBY commands with the Remote Control.
  • Each INPUT can be individually level trimmed to match and to optimize system gain staging of various input devices.
  • The fancy blue LED displays surrounding the INPUT and VOLUME encoder knobs can be dimmed down or turned off entirely, after a user-settable time period, or a "screen-saver" random light sequence can be selected. Speed and intensity of the "Starlight" mode can be tweaked to taste.
  • All custom user settings are hard written into memory when the unit is put into STANDBY mode and thus retained if power is later interrupted.
  • Individual sealed gold contact relays deliver the selected input into the volume control system before hitting the first 12AT7 input tubes. Following the mighty 6414 driver/phase splitter, the trusty EL84 output stage can be switched between either 20 watts of TRIODE power or 40 watts of Ultra Linear mode push-pull operation. Individual bias for each tube is easily adjusted using the trimpots and test points, conveniently located on the top surface of the amplifier. The Stingray's power supply is extra-rugged and stiff, a MANLEY hallmark. It swims with the sharks: fast, agile, fluid, and with consummate authority.
  • Post-volume SUBWOOFER OUTPUT allows easy hookup of outboard line-level driven active powered subwoofers. This output is after the volume control so that the subwoofer will track the volume level changes of the main speakers. The SUB OUTPUT is a line level and full frequency output that is AFTER the volume control so your powered subwoofer follows the same volume as your main speakers. These are unbalanced RCA jacks, line level. They feed the line inputs of your subwoofer, NOT the speaker jacks. A switchable TAPE LOOP is standard. The TAPE SEND is the output of the selected input before the volume control. The TAPE RETURN can also be used as a 5th line input if needed.
  • RECORD OUT (aka Tape OUT) is BEFORE the volume control so you can record whatever input you have selected without your listening level affecting the level going to your recorder. These are unbalanced RCA's. It is UNbalanced RCA's and UNbuffered so check out the input Z to your recorder to make sure it won't load down the Stingray main input while it is plugged in. Usually with unbuffered record outs we recommend you only plug in your recorder only when you are actually recording...
  • Tape LOOP: Also known as an INSERT point, the SEND or Tape Out comes off the selector switch as the Record Out option does going to your outboard EQ or Merlin BAM unit or tape recorder and then the signal returns (RETURN) to the Stingray in front of of the volume control so you can play tunes. A toggle switch selects whether the Tape LOOP (and whatever is plugged into the Tape Loop) is active or the signal goes straight through the Stingray as normal. If you have the Merlin BAM system, order your Stingray with the Tape LOOP option.

 

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE STINGRAY ITUBE AND THE STINGRAY II?

Mainly: the Stingray II has 1/8" line input instead of iPod dock. The Stingray II has four sets of stereo analog inputs. The 4th input is on a stereo 1/8" jack for easy interface with portable devices and computers. The Stingray iTube® has an iPod dock as the 4th audio input which will charge and play your iPod, iPhone, or iTouch device. Track advance, back and volume control can be commanded from the Stingray iTube's remote control. The iPod's video output can be ported to a monitor via the S-Video output. The Stingray iTube® has been licensed from Apple as a Made for iPod approved device. Note: the original Stingray has been discontinued.

 
 
 

SPECIFICATIONS

 
  • 3 x Stereo Line RCA Inputs
  • 1 x iPod dock (analog output used)
  • TRIODE - UL Output Stage Mode Switching
  • RECORDING OUT
  • SUBWOOFER OUT
  • TAPE LOOP (Insert) with Bypass switch
  • S-VIDEO OUT (from iPod dock)
  • 1/4" Headphone OUTPUT (mutes speakers and subwoofer output when deployed)
  • Logic controlled Volume and Balance functions
  • All-Vacuum Tube Lo-feedback Stereo Integrated Design
  • Output Tubes: 8 x EL84 Ships with Russian NOS EL84M (aka 6Pi14Pi-EB)
  • Driver Tubes: 2 x 6414 Ships with GE or RAYTHEON JAN NOS USA or 6414W
  • Input Tubes: 2 x 12AT7EH Ships with: 12AT7EH large plate Electro-Harmonix Russian
  • Maximum Output Power UL mode: 32 Watts x 2 channels 1.5% THD @ 1kHz into 5 Ohms
  • Maximum Output Power TRIODE mode: 18 Watts x 2 channels 1.5% THD @ 1kHz into 5 Ohms
  • Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 58 kHz, -1dB
  • Gain: 35 dB at max Volume
  • Input Sensitivity UL Full Power: 210 mV in = 32 watts out into 5 Ohms with volume control at maximum
  • Input Sensitivity Triode: 41mV in = 1W into 5 Ohms with volume control at 20dB gain setting
  • Input Sensitivity UL: 35mV in = 1W into 5 Ohms with volume control at 20dB gain setting
  • Crosstalk: -72dB
  • Noise: 5.8 microVolts A-WGT; @600 Ohms
  • S/N Ratio: typically 97 dB A-WGT @ 600 Ohms
  • S/N Ratio: typically 72 dB A-WGT, 1W output, 20dB gain, Source Z = shorted input
  • THD+N Ratio: typically 64 db at 1W output, Bandwidth 22Hz-22kHz, Source = 1kHz Sine wave
  • Input Impedance: 12 kOhm nominal
  • Output Impedance at TAPE Output: 47 Ohms
  • Optimum Speaker Load: 5 Ohms
  • Speaker Terminal Output Impedance: 2.36 Ohms @ 20Hz, 2 Ohms @ 1kHz, 1.83 Ohms @20kHz
  • Damping Factor into 8 Ohms (UL mode): 6.7 @ 100 Hz; 7.2 @ 1 kHz; 6.9 @ 10 kHz
  • Damping Factor into 8 Ohms (Triode mode): 7.2 @ 100 Hz; 7.8 @ 1 kHz; 8.0 @ 10 kHz
  • Headphone Jack Output Impedance: 53 Ohms
  • Scratch Factor: Use pennies under pointed feet to avoid marring cabinetry. Try quarters if you are in upper tax brackets. The bargain performer would be nickels. Paper currency does not function as well. Euro coins work 1.54 times better.
  • Remote Control Type: RF (radio frequency) and IR (infrared), user selectable
  • Volume Control:Cirrus Digital Level Control System, controlled by Grayhill Rotary Encoders
  • Volume Control Range:102dB in 1dB steps turning slowly, with larger steps as rate of turn increases
  • Power Consumption (Standby, no iPod charging):6W
  • Power Consumption (Standby, iPod charging:12W
  • Power Consumption Idle: 198W
  • Maximum Power Consumption at Full Power: 300W
  • MAINS Fuses:
    100~120VAC operation: MDL 3 AMP / 250 Volt SLO-BLO
    220~240VAC operation: MDL 1.5 AMP / 250 Volt SLO-BLO
  • B+ FUSES (2): MDA 1/4 AMP, 250 Volt SLO-BLO, Ceramic.
  • Power Supply: is factory set for 100V, 120V or 220-240VAC operation
    for original destination country's mains voltage.
  • Operating Mains Voltage: changeable with power transformer re-wiring on PCB and fuse value change.
  • Mains Voltage Frequency:
  • Power Cord: Detachable IEC standard. 
    Appropriate power cord supplied for original destination country
  • Dimensions: W= 19", D=14", H= 7 1/2"
  • Shipping Weight: 35 lbs.
 
Specifications subject to change because they just might.
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REVIEWS

"Despite the Stingray’s small size and light weight, the bass has a feeling of thickness and power…I was surprised that such a sound with such a sense of energy comes out from such a small and light tube amplifier."

- Ippinkan, 2015 (Japanese)

"...while it's tempting to categorise the Stingray iTube merely as a means of using an iPod in an audiophile-friendly, valve-driven manner, that would sell it short. Instead, it should be regarded first and foremost as a great audiophile amp that just so happens to take iPods directly."

Ken Kessler, HiFi News, September 2009

"...what makes the Stingray really great is that the solid sonic performance is complemented with this metal housing remote control that does almost everything you need while listening to music..."

Mike, Headphonia, April 2011

"The Manley Stingray iTube is a winner. Much ink has been spilled over the many sonic virtues of the original Stingray, and rightfully so. The addition of the iPod dock brings it squarely into the 20th century, and opens up high quality audio to a largely untapped audience"

Nels Ferre, EnjoyTheMusic.com, November 2009

"every [audiophile] looking for a great-sounding tube integrated that stands out from the crowd—ought to at least spend some time with the Manley Stingray iTube. It undermined my expectations and then exceeded them. I was stung by its performance. It might sting you, too."

Erick Lichte, Stereophile, March 2010

 
 
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RESOURCES

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What tubes should I get for my Manley Stingray?

You can get a complete retube kit right here on our webstore.

HELP! One channel is out!

First step, check bias readings on that channel. If all of the tubes are reading ZERO = 0.000 Volts DC, then the B+ fuse is blown. Turn OFF the unit. Consult the manual and change the fuse.

Next, if that's not it and you are getting normal bias reading on all of the output tubes, exchange the 12AT7 input and then the 6414 driver tubes between the channels one swap at a time, and see if the problem switches channels with the tube swap. 

Next, recheck your inputs and make sure you have it selected to the active input.

If you are still stumped, fill out the SERVICE REQUEST FORM and we'll take it from there.


HELP! The volume control quit working and BOTH channels are out!

We want to focus on the right volume control encoder. The most common cause of the volume control to fail is poor crimping of the pins of the 6 pin wiring connector and/or a loose pin making a poor contact at the connector onto the encoder. Look there and make sure that the wire assembly is making good contact to the encoder pins. Also, the underside of the connector on the main pcb, look around there for the possibility of a cold soldered joint which would cause the volume rotary encoder to fail. The encoder pot/switch itself is very delicate and can fail or be damaged rather easily during shipping if it gets hit from the front. If damaged, over time the volume switch/encoder can fail. The Grayhill encoder-switch, and the wiring from encoder to the connector can be replaced quite easily if you find a bad encoder.

All my tubes are out of range. I can’t get them all down to the required 250mV readings?

Inside the amplifier, the Master Bias Pot is the round blue trimpot located on the main PSU PCB. Turning this trimpot will raise and lower all of the bias readings at one time. Prop up the amp upside-down raising the front edge so that the output tubes don't get squished (I used a pepper spice jar to rest the front of the amp against) and turn the pot while measuring one of the tube bias and see which way raises vs lowers the reading. If all your tubes were reading too high, then turn that Master Bias Pot to turn all the bias readings down a bunch, then individually re-bias your tubes back up to 250mV, trying to set the Master Bias Pot so that your individual trimmers pretty much live in the middle of their rotation. Usual precautions working with high voltages while the bottom cover is off and the circuit board is exposed to you: don't touch parts inside the amplifier. Don't get shocked... etc.



How do I bias my Manley tube amplifiers?