STEREO INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER
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jump to: DETAILS SPECIFICATIONS REVIEWS RESOURCES
The famous Manley Stingray stereo integrated amplifier has been renewed and refreshed. New for 2009 we present to you the Stingray iTube integrated tube amplifier with iPod dock and full featured RF and IR remote control.
The STINGRAY iTube is the next evolution from our acclaimed Stingray Integrated Amplifier, legendary in the hifi world since it swam from our labs in 1997. Originally conceived with particular attention paid to optimal component placement for the purity and symmetry of the signal path layout, the Stingray quickly became one of our best-selling products. The Stingray iTube retains the same basic tube circuitry and marvelous output transformers as the original with some important improvements:
Mainly: the Stingray II has 1/8" line input instead of iPod dock. The Stingray II has four sets of stereo analog inputs. The 4th input is on a stereo 1/8" jack for easy interface with portable devices and computers. The Stingray iTube® has an iPod dock as the 4th audio input which will charge and play your iPod, iPhone, or iTouch device. Track advance, back and volume control can be commanded from the Stingray iTube's remote control. The iPod's video output can be ported to a monitor via the S-Video output. The Stingray iTube® has been licensed from Apple as a Made for iPod approved device. Note: the original Stingray has been discontinued.
- Ken Kessler, HiFi News, September 2009
- Mike, Headphonia, April 2011
- Nels Ferre, EnjoyTheMusic.com, November 2009
You can get a complete retube kit right here on our webstore.
First step, check bias readings on that channel. If all of the tubes are reading ZERO = 0.000 Volts DC, then the B+ fuse is blown. Turn OFF the unit. Consult the manual and change the fuse.
Next, if that's not it and you are getting normal bias reading on all of the output tubes, exchange the 12AT7 input and then the 6414 driver tubes between the channels one swap at a time, and see if the problem switches channels with the tube swap.
Next, recheck your inputs and make sure you have it selected to the active input.
If you are still stumped, fill out the SERVICE REQUEST FORM and we'll take it from there.
We want to focus on the right volume control encoder. The most common cause of the volume control to fail is poor crimping of the pins of the 6 pin wiring connector and/or a loose pin making a poor contact at the connector onto the encoder. Look there and make sure that the wire assembly is making good contact to the encoder pins. Also, the underside of the connector on the main pcb, look around there for the possibility of a cold soldered joint which would cause the volume rotary encoder to fail. The encoder pot/switch itself is very delicate and can fail or be damaged rather easily during shipping if it gets hit from the front. If damaged, over time the volume switch/encoder can fail. The Grayhill encoder-switch, and the wiring from encoder to the connector can be replaced quite easily if you find a bad encoder.
Inside the amplifier, the Master Bias Pot is the round blue trimpot located on the main PSU PCB. Turning this trimpot will raise and lower all of the bias readings at one time. Prop up the amp upside-down raising the front edge so that the output tubes don't get squished (I used a pepper spice jar to rest the front of the amp against) and turn the pot while measuring one of the tube bias and see which way raises vs lowers the reading. If all your tubes were reading too high, then turn that Master Bias Pot to turn all the bias readings down a bunch, then individually re-bias your tubes back up to 250mV, trying to set the Master Bias Pot so that your individual trimmers pretty much live in the middle of their rotation. Usual precautions working with high voltages while the bottom cover is off and the circuit board is exposed to you: don't touch parts inside the amplifier. Don't get shocked... etc.